Just as things were settling down and I was getting into the swing of things in Guanajuato, we took a weekend trip to Mexico City, the 2nd largest city in the world with 22 million in habitants. The city is not what I expected in geographic terms. It is very spread out and there seemed to be no huge downtown with massive skyscrapers. There were skyscrapers but nothing spectacular. Atlanta easily has Mexico City beat in skyscrapers in number and size. But from a roof top, the city is never-ending.
We arrived at our hostel to check in first and had lunch and then set out on a tour of the city on foot. We soon found out that what we were seeing was but a fraction of the city but in essence the heart of it. Our guide was Pepe and he was pretty much the most adorable man ever. He was very easy to understand, since again all of our tour was in Spanish, and so funny! Anyway, Pepe took us first to some Aztec ruins right in the middle of the city, about 2 blocks from our hostel. (Note: this blog is for my own memory as well, so I am about to spin off lots of facts, feel free to skim read
) The capitol of the Aztec nation was located exactly where Mexico City is today. Basically, the Spanish just came in and replaced the Aztec Empire and built churches on top of their pyramids, literally. Almost the entire modern city is built on ruins, which is why so many of the buildings, especially the older ones have to be carefully maintained. You can visibly notice that many buildings are crooked. On top of that, the ground is not particularly stable in the first place, because the Aztec city was an island in the middle of a large lake. The Spanish diverted streams and used irrigation to make the land that Mexico City stands on today. So the city is on a lake bed. We walked a little bit and Pepe pointed out some other historic buildings like the first college of Art in the Americas, the first mint, and a building where the Virgin Mary appeared. Then we went to the first cathedral of the Americas, the Cathedral of Mexico, which is right next door to the Palace of Mexico where the government is housed. We were supposed to be able to go into the palace but couldn’t because some special event was going on, and a girl in our group heard before that Obama was coming to Mexico on Monday to meet the Mexican President, so maybe that was it. Anyway, the Cathedral is massive but lopsided. When I walked in the first thing I noticed was that the arc at the end of the hall was tilted to the right. Other than that, it’s beautiful. One strange thing was the Cathedral owned a relic, the bones of some European saint. Pepe did not even know the name of the saint and there was no sign indicating who it might be, just this creepy skull staring out from a glass case.
Walking on to museum of art, where we didn’t actually go through the museum, just took a step inside to see the structure; the outside was more impressive. Interestingly enough, most of the marble on the outside came from Italy, while the inside is mostly stone from Mexico. The building certainly had an older world, European look to it, and I found myself comparing the buildings to places in Italy throughout the day. There are more metal statues than marble ones, making the city appear much darker than Italy. On a side note, it never rains here! I love it. The sun is always shining, but it’s not terribly hot…unless you hike it up a pyramid…
Second day in Mexico City…Saturday.
We start by driving to la Plaza de tres culturas. The three cultures being : Aztec, Spanish, and Mexican. All in one plaza there are Aztec ruins and remnants of a pyramid, a church built by the Spanish using the stones from the pyramid they had just destroyed, and a more modern, open plaza, I think to represent the Mexican aspect. The church is not very grand but it is one of the oldest in the city and as I said, it was built with the stones from the pyramid that lies right beside of it, making it look almost similar in a strange way to the Aztec ruins. I am not sure of the exact significance of the Mexican Plaza but from what I understood, during the Revolution against Spain, many Mexicans protested in that area and were killed by the government for it and the plaza is like a remembrance to them…?? Sometimes it’s hard not to tune Pepe out when I am too tired to make my brain translate everything he is saying.
Then we went to the most visited Basilica in the world. La Basilica de Guadalupe can hold 22,000 people and on its grounds there are 6 different churches. One is very modern looking and holds a bent cross from a miracle that occurred in the church when someone brought a bomb in some flowers and it exploded but the only thing that happened was that one of the golden crosses on the alter was bent. Behind the large basilica is a garden with many figures and towards the end of it is a large statue of the virgin Mary, because this is where she appeared the 3rd time in Mexico City. We couldn’t go inside the main Basilica because they were doing restoration repairs, but from the outside it was impressive.
Then the best part of the trip thus far…the onyx museum with lunch followed by the 3rd largest pyramid in the world. At the onyx museum, we learned about this plant that was native to the area. The Aztecs used it for paper, string, drinks, and the tip of the plant as a needle. A man brought a tray full of 3 different kinds of drinks, two of which were strong tequila. They use the plant’s nectar to mix with tequila to give it a different taste. It was funny to watch people’s faces as they sipped the strongest tequila. Then they showed us how they shape, cut, and shine the onyx and other rocks and make them into figurines. They were so beautiful, I wanted one so bad but I knew the tight space in my luggage wouldn’t allow it. Plus, they made jewelry with the stones too
I got a ring with this type of onyx that almost seems to change colors in the light, a ring with the Aztec disc calendar, and 2 pieces of art with the Aztec disc on tree bark. The same men who worked in the shop and made the onyx, followed us to lunch, where they played some awesome Mexican music. One of them asked my name and then the next song I hear “Que paso, que paso Alejandra? Donde estas, Donde estas Alejandra?” Pretty hilarious, but still not as funny as when they put the keyboard on auto and asked all the girls to dance. <3
Then we went to the pyramids, which were by far the most interesting part to me. So again with the trivia…the pyramids are at least 2,000 years old and due to the size of the city they were in, when Rome fell, this civilization was likely the largest on earth. No one knows who built them, because they were later discovered deserted by the Aztecs. The Aztecs called it the city of the Gods and performed ceremonies there, but never actually occupied the city because they revered it so. Teotihuacana is the name the Aztecs gave to the city. Archeologists say that there is evidence of a civil war in concordance with years of drought in the area and that the city was probably, deserted after the war due to people searching for peaceful lands and to escape the drought. The large pyramid is called “del Sol” or the Sun pyramid. There is a smaller pyramid near the larger one called “de la Luna,” Moon Pyramid. This is supposedly representative of the relationship between Man and Woman and also the reverence that the civilization had for the workings of the sun and moon in relation to fertility, farming, and such. I cannot begin to describe the size of it. Its base is almost the exact size of the Great pyramid in Egypt, its side is only smaller by exactly .5 meters. However the pyramid in Egypt is double the height, which I can’t comprehend, because I could barely believe the height of this pyramid was possible. It was simply mind boggling and nothing but questions ran through my mind. Why? The shear size of the project and time it must have taken would seem to outweigh any desire or feeling of necessity for such a building. I know it was used for ceremonies and that’s about it, so I think why didn’t you just find a nice hill? I mean really, how a civilization 2,000 years ago accomplished it is beyond me. How!?! The pyramid today is not even its full size because of the not-so-intelligent man who discovered it and used dynamite to excavate it. Ok, now… The stairs…Imagine walking on stairs that are thinner than normal, very steep, almost straight up in spots, to the top of a pyramid built 2,000 years ago that is half as high as the Great Pyramid in Egypt. It was rough. The view was worth it though. Plus I get to say, “I climbed the 3rd tallest pyramid in the world.” The pyramid in Egypt is only 2nd, though btw. The tallest in the world is also in Mexico, but Pepe said it is not as impressive because it is the same height, but just double the base, and the Spanish built a church at the top of it. Ugh. That’s frustrating.
Day 3…Sunday
Very relaxed day with lots of driving. First, was the Frida Kahlo museum, which is actually where she and her husband Diego Rivera lived for 25 years. I had seen her artwork of course, but it never really did anything for me. However, that’s because I had only seen the self portraits she did. I really love some of her other pieces and her husband’s as well. It was a really life-like museum because they had most of the rooms set up how they were when she lived there, including her art studio. I felt a different appreciation for her instead of simply the woman with all the paintings of herself with fruit in her hair.
Then we drove to the only remaining body of water in Mexico City, the man made canal. This is also where we had lunch. We had carry-out Mexican on a boat as we were driven down the canal using nothing but a big wooden stick, not to be confused with a paddle. This was really touristy thing, but enjoyable nonetheless. At one point a boat full of mariachis came up to our boat and played 3 or 4 songs for us. It was very relaxing to just drift down the water and sun bathe, definitely different from the feeling of being in downtown Mexico City. That was our last stop before the 5 hour drive home.
I was ready to leave the city. It felt like I was breathing in smog everywhere I went, and it was stereotypically dirty. The history was amazing and interesting, but the busyness was apparent everywhere. I also didn’t enjoy being bussed around everywhere. I actually missed Guanajuato. I guess I am more of a small town girl. Oh well.